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Tip #1...Make sure you have a net large enough to handle the size of fish you may catch. On more than a couple occasions I have helped fisher people land a large fish they were not prepared for. Trout nets will not work. You need a long-handled, large hooped, deep net. We have successfully netted fish near 80 inches in these size nets with little problem. Dave Textor
Tip #2...Line. I use 30-lb. most of the time. Not too heavy, not too light. It's capable of landing most anything you will hook, assuming you have an anchor release (I will talk about that later). Be sure to check the last few feet of your line after every fish for abrasions and nicks. Sturgeon like to roll up in the line. If you find any damage, cut the bad part out and retie. Hook 'em up! Dave Textor
Tip #3...Anchor. I mentioned an anchor release earlier. There are several ways to do this. I have a 12-in.-round fender ball to which I have attached some rope with a large clip. I clip this to the bitter end of my anchor rope which has a loop. It is all set up as not to catch on anything when deployed. In the event a large fish is hooked and you are unable to stop it, release the anchor rope from the boat and toss the ball into the water. This will float your rope and notify boaters of an object in the water. Now you can chase the fish with the boat. When done, simply return to the ball and reattach your anchor line to the boat. Dave Textor
Tip #4...Weights. I use just enough weight to hold the bottom. Have a good selection handy so you can change according to the tide. Pyramids hold better in fast water. Be sure to attach the big end to your slider. During slower tides or windy conditions, I sometimes go to a flat weight so it will slide across the bottom easier if you are swinging. Dave Textor
Tip #5...Leaders. The basic setup I use is 18 - 24 inch with double, opposed hooks. I make my own, but you can buy these at any bait shop. They tend to be on the long side and I prefer to shorten them. Remember they need to be a minimum of 18 inches. I will discuss materials and hook styles later. Dave Textor
Tip #6...Rods. I use 7 to 7-½ foot, fiberglass, med-fast to fast action rods. I have found these work well with sensitive tips to detect the bite and have plenty of backbone to lift heavy fish to the net. Line-class ratings are from 12 - 30 lb. Dave Textor
TIP #7...Reels. A multitude of options exist here. Everyone has a preference. Mine is a level wind, lever drag that will hold close to 300 yards of 30-lb. test. Even then, I have seen that ripped off in less than a minute. With these reels you are not fumbling with a drag during a fight. You know exactly where it is and can easily adjust as need be. Dave Textor
TIP #8...Snares. Many people have them, and most I know rarely use them. They can be used alone but are more useful with two people. They are very damaging to the fish. They tend to tear off scutes and put the weight of the entire fish in a very narrow area usually around its belly. If you plan on keeping the fish, like them, find them easy to use then they may be for you. Nets are much easier on the fish. Dave Textor
TIP #9...Anchor release. I figured out the maximum amount of anchor line I need 90 percent of the time and cut a length of rope. It has an 8-inch spliced loop in the bitter end, which I attach to my bow cleat while fishing. I have a 12-inch-round fender to which I have attached 5 feet of rope with a large clip on the end. This rope is routed through my anchor roller and clipped to the 8-inch spliced loop of the anchor. When you hook a fish you need to chase, simply remove the 8-inch loop from the cleat. The boat drifts away from the anchor, pulling the ball overboard, marking you anchor. After playing the fish, return to the ball, pick up the line and reattach it to the bow cleat. My normal anchor rope has a large clip on it also for fishing deep water. Clip it to the 8-inch loop and use normally. Dave Textor
TIP #10...Hooks. I prefer octopus style. If they begin to dull, replace them. You need very sharp hooks to penetrate a sturgeon's mouth. Spend the money and get quality hooks. There is a difference. Dave Textor
TIP #11...Leader material. After years of using coated wire I have switched to mono. I use 125-lb. mono with crimps. Knots work well also but crimps leave less to tangle on during a cast. The mono holds up much better. It will not kink. The coating does not come off after one fish. I have never had a fish cut through it. Dave Textor
TIP #12...The hookset. Once I detect the bite, I point my rod tip in the direction the line enters the water. Freespool with clicker off and light thumb pressure on the spool. The next tug gets both thumbs on the spool and a strong set. Dave Textor
TIP #13... Waiting for the bite. I leave my reel in freespool with the clicker on, leaning at a 45 degree angle against the back of the boat. If you look away for a second and a suicide pull-down occurs, you will not lose your rod. You must watch your tip as much as possible. If the action is hot I hold the rod in freespool and no clicker with light thumb pressure on the spool. Dave Textor
TIP #14... Fish handling. I generally use cotton gloves to handle the fish to protect me from cuts and get a better grip. Keep your hands out of the gill plates. Handle them as little as possible and return the fish to the water as soon as possible, preferably not on a rope. Dave Textor
TIP #15... Once the fish is in the net I release my leader from my line and place the rod in a safe place BEFORE I bring the fish aboard. It will keep you from breaking your rod and getting caught by a hook or weight. Dave Textor
TIP #16... Sea anchor. I frequently utilize a sea anchor to keep the boat straight with the tide. This helps see the subtle bites. Mine has two lines connected to the sea anchor and I place one on each side to the rear cleats. This cuts the swing distance in half as opposed to connecting it to only one side of the boat. Dave Textor
TIP #17...Tides. I have found that an hour to 1-1/2 hours on each side of the tide it most productive. Of course the larger tides stir up more bait, but I have caught fish on small tides also. My favorite tide is the end of the outgo. This seems to consistently produce the most fish. Dave Textor
TIP #18...The bite. Sturgeon generally "pull" the bait as opposed to a striper which generally "pecks" the bait. The pull-down can be very slight, like a piece of grass hooked on your line and creating more drag. It might also just start ripping line with no notice. You generally see smooth rod tip action as opposed to a bouncing tip created by a striper. You usually have a couple chances for the hookset on the pull down before they go away. Don’t miss! Dave Textor
TIP #19...Deep holes. Deep holes are more easily fished during the ends of the tides. It is easier to set your anchor and you need much less weight to hold the bottom. I prefer not to use more than 10 oz. of weight, so I have found this to be the best time to fish these areas. Dave Textor
TIP #20...Hookset. When the soft nibbling sturgeon actually does take bait, the grand scheme of fooling the monster is complete and everything next depends on the hookset.
It takes a mighty heave to set a hook in a sturgeon's leathery, tough mouth. I lost one at the boat, and since that time I have made it a practice to set the hook not once, but several times. I try to set it very deep, very sure, hopefully clear through the mouth. After three or four hard sets, I begin the battle. Of course, if the sturgeon is peeling off line in a hurry, the extra hook sets will likely have to wait.
And if setting the hook again and again results in pulling the hook loose, it wasn't a good hookset from the start. The sturgeon would likely not have made it to the boat. Dale Gillespie
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